#380: Seeing Doppel

A couple of years ago I found a pair of Paulaner Salvator mugs in a Mitchelstown charity shop. They date from the 60s or 70s and carry a respectable 25cl each, perfect for splitting a half litre of doppelbock in front of the fire. It's been years since I've had Salvator but when I finally picked one up again, it had been shrunk down to a disappointing but arguably sensible 330ml package. Nevermind sharing then. 

Paulaner Salvator pours mostly clear and paler than I expected, a bright muddy red. Marzipan and milk chocolate ooze from the aroma and follow though to the palate, but there's also a touch of the permanent marker I found off-putting all those years ago. Initially the beer passes by pleasant, though one-dimensional, but after a while the sense of hot booze only grows more prominent. 

Like pretty much every time I've had a Paulaner Salvator it starts fine but tapers eventually towards slight disappointment. It's seemingly more available these days in its new (and admittedly quite nice) packaging, and while maybe not an essential classic it's a compelling enough  purchase at the price and I'm glad to see it knocking around. Still, it has a long way to improve before becoming anything like a go-to pickup for the style. Not that you asked, but that would be Celebrator (for nuance) or Doppel Hirsch (for brute force).

Or it might even be Galway Bay's Illuminator. I've had this a handful of times since release (editorial-repeat purchases are essential, especially in a world of such infinite and ever-changing choice and high competition as beer) and it is easily one of the best doppelbocks I've ever had. By comparison with the Salvator it's a good deal darker, with a red glow emanating from its mahogany tone and offering a beautiful aroma that suggests raisin and concentrated chewy toffee. The palate is stunning, mouth coating without being sticky and giving milk chocolate, toffee, figs and even a hint of that Pedro Ximinez dark fruit concentration that delights me in a strong dark beer. Still, we're only at 7.9% and we are getting serious value for that; it feels bigger. Not boozier, or even stronger at all, just bigger, broader and more long-lived on the palate. 

There's a proper robust bitterness too, that lingers like a wisp of coffee but also cleans up that malt intensity to make it far more drinkable than my tasting notes might be suggesting. Yes, you can quite justifiably sip this fireside as a digestif (and I kind of did, from my wine glass) but you can also grasp a ceramic mug and quaff this (which I definitely did), much like those pious lads depicted on aforementioned mug.

Where the Salvator feels like a good song but with the bass stripped out and the treble all dialled up, Illuminator has the full dynamic range; its rounder, fuller, more complex and far more interesting. Having both of these beers in the same evening was, in hindsight, a terribly unfair exercise for the poor old Salvator. 

#379: In the Headlights

Hopfully don't feature regularly enough on this blog, but towards the end of last year and the beginning of this one my craving for modern IPAs brought me regularly to their door. 

Headlights drew me in with its listing of Citra and Nelson Sauvin, both of them worthy of being a headliner on their own, and my first impression is that it's beautiful. Pale and opaque, there's an initial ooze of sweet juice - pineapple, melon and grape combining for a convincingly tropical effect. The palate is fairly sweet, though to be fair the beer is three months old at this stage. In any case it's moreish and delicious, with ripe orange, honeydew melon and some slightly sticky mango syrupy stuff. There's every chance that the bit of age has dulled some of the nuance of the hops in question, especially the somewhat delicate Nelson Sauvin, but I found plenty here to enjoy regardless

As I did in Closet, a DIPA of 7.6%. At only 1.3% stronger than the Headlights, it doesn't quite do enough to make it feel much different. Again it's pale and hazy, again it's sweet and tropical, again we have citrus and pineapple and melon. This time though, sweetness is very much the only thing on show. It's not unpleasant, and I can tolerate this more than a savoury yeast stink or acidic hop burn, but I don't think we're getting the full value of the strength on show. 

For the money and the alcohol involved, Headlights is probably the better bet for bang for your buck, by my barometer. It has all the saisfying mouthfeel you would have wanted from a strong IPA and offers more expressive hop fun.